Striped Thurlows

Summershortsheader

With three short completed its  time to battle fit…please step up Sewaholic Thurlows

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Pattern: Thurlow Shorts by Sewaholic Patterns
Size: 10
Alterations: A 1/2 inch full seat and 1/2 inch full abdomen adjustment
Fabric: Stretch cotton from Gorgeous Fabrics

The complex patterns continue for the Summer of Shorts as we have a fly front, double welt back pockets, centre back extension and belt loops.  Definitely one for the details!

Flat front

Sewaholic Patterns are sized for a pear-shaped figure: smaller waist, larger hips and thighs.  Well, I guess I am an extra pear pear as I needed some additional space for a full derrière and the absence of a flat tummy.  I completed a quick muslin in a size 10 and then The Perfect Fit: The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns keeps me in good stead for the adjustments I needed.  I did check out Nancy Ziemans Pattern Fitting with confidence but I just didn’t understand what I needed to adjustment so I moved on.  Thankfully with The Perfect Fit I was able to match my fit problem to the mass of fitting photos within the book and go from there.

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I think I was falling into the rabbit hole that is fitting as I panicked when attaching the waistband I adjusted for another smidge for the ‘protruding tummy’.  As a result the waistband does not match up as nicely as if I just left it alone.   Aahh, the punishment of overfitting!   And I am still not convinced by the fitting.  Adding to the drama, my hip measurement has dropped since I made the test muslin not significant but just enough that the shorts seem to wear a tad lower than I intended.

Back welt

The back welt pockets went in nicely, and the belt loop technique was a breeze.

The fabric makes the project and this make is certainly no different.  The striped cotton is from Gorgeous Fabrics – its still available and now I notice that another colour way is available. The fabric is well behaved and there were no dramas in the construction.

Front pocket

I got some perfect stripe matching on the front pockets – like a boss!

 

The centre back extension that I didn’t use to fit the shorts.  But now I think be able to bring in the waistband.  I used the blind hem stitch that came with my sewing machine to get the stitching in the waistband ‘ditch’  which works like a charms as long I have given the waistband a good press with a iron beforehand and I smooth the waistband as it goes through the sewing machine.

Inside back extension

 

One of my few deviations from the instructions was to french seam the front pockets.  Such an awesome finish to try!

French seam front pocket

 

I love the finish of the shorts.  It is seems very much ready to wear – love the details on the front waistband with the extra button to support the closure and little point on inside.

 

Fly front

 

My  other deviation from the pattern instructions was to complete the hem with a double fold and top stitch with some topstitching thread I had in the sewing stash.

 

 

Topstitched double fold hem

Some things to note for next time – Not the biggest fan of the small slash pocket.   I think if I switch to the side slash pockets from Pattern Runway scalloped shorts to the Thurlow I think I have found my tried and true shorts pattern.

Next up for the Summer of Shorts – probably some hibernation as Brisbane transitions into somewhat ‘cooler’ weather.  I am considering some corporate trousers for work in a wool suiting.  Perhaps with a ‘lighter’ dress zip the fly fronts will be mastered as I edge towards a tried and true pants pattern!  I do have more shorts in the pattern stash – but I may need to wait til the next time warmer weather is around before the knees make an appearance.

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Lawny Lady Skater

Front full

With the ongoing battle for the perfect fitting shorts I need a break.  A quick make with no welt pockets and fit issues. Enter Lady Skater!

Pattern: Lady Skater Dress by Kitschy Coo
Size: 4 at bust / 5 at waist
Alterations: extended shoulder seams for wide shoulders
Fabric: Tana Lawn Knit

Full back

Again its another pdf pattern, I think the taping together of paper is sapping my sewing mojo.   Next make will definitely be tissue paper pattern.

The pattern has two sets of instructions: a full photo tutorial with hints and tips and a shorter crib sheet version for more experienced sewers.  I started with the full version but I ended up getting lost in the details and ended up using the short version by the end.  The full version is definitely packed with information and hints.  I did pick up some tips – like how to handle clear elastic!  I have always had difficulty using clear elastic and previously I have given up on it to use other methods to stabilise like fusible stay tape.  But the instructions showed me the light and I may be able to actually use up the stash of clear elastic I seemed to have had forever.

Back headless

The fabric is another Spotlight purchased – its cotton / modal blend.  I didn’t know tana lawn knit was a thing, but when I found the rack in the store I couldn’t walk past it.  The fabric is really light which makes the dress really comfortable to wear and I think suits the Lady Skater skirt really well.  However the recovery of the fabric is quite limited – the dress can only take a couple of wears before looking quite ordinary.   A refresh via the washing machine and its back to good again.

Front headless

The skirt is great – oh so flattering!  And the assistance of clear elastic supporting the waistline means the skirt hangs so nicely.

Neckline

The neckline is sweet.  The neckline binding is applied in before finishing the second shoulder seam – though I think I prefer the finish when the binding is completed after both shoulder seams (I always seem to have clumsy shoulder seam when I complete neck binding ‘in the flat’ but it may be just my technique that’s below par)Side headless

The hem I finished off with a quick twin needle – and all done within a couple of hours.  An awesome quick make that I have already got lots of wear from.

Notes for next time: I think I over adjusted for wide shoulders –  next time I will reduce the extension I made.  I didn’t think that the adjustment that I usually make for wovens would be different for a knit, but of course it is.  I’ll know better next time.

Knits are still a learning curve but improvement continues.  Maybe even a coverstitch machine is in my future! And I have the Kitschy Coo’s Penny Pinafore in my sights.  Also check out the range of knit fabric on Kitschy Coo’s website – oh so cute.