With three short completed its time to battle fit…please step up Sewaholic Thurlows
The complex patterns continue for the Summer of Shorts as we have a fly front, double welt back pockets, centre back extension and belt loops. Definitely one for the details!
Sewaholic Patterns are sized for a pear-shaped figure: smaller waist, larger hips and thighs. Well, I guess I am an extra pear pear as I needed some additional space for a full derrière and the absence of a flat tummy. I completed a quick muslin in a size 10 and then The Perfect Fit: The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns keeps me in good stead for the adjustments I needed. I did check out Nancy Ziemans Pattern Fitting with confidence but I just didn’t understand what I needed to adjustment so I moved on. Thankfully with The Perfect Fit I was able to match my fit problem to the mass of fitting photos within the book and go from there.
I think I was falling into the rabbit hole that is fitting as I panicked when attaching the waistband I adjusted for another smidge for the ‘protruding tummy’. As a result the waistband does not match up as nicely as if I just left it alone. Aahh, the punishment of overfitting! And I am still not convinced by the fitting. Adding to the drama, my hip measurement has dropped since I made the test muslin not significant but just enough that the shorts seem to wear a tad lower than I intended.
The back welt pockets went in nicely, and the belt loop technique was a breeze.
The fabric makes the project and this make is certainly no different. The striped cotton is from Gorgeous Fabrics – its still available and now I notice that another colour way is available. The fabric is well behaved and there were no dramas in the construction.
I got some perfect stripe matching on the front pockets – like a boss!
The centre back extension that I didn’t use to fit the shorts. But now I think be able to bring in the waistband. I used the blind hem stitch that came with my sewing machine to get the stitching in the waistband ‘ditch’ which works like a charms as long I have given the waistband a good press with a iron beforehand and I smooth the waistband as it goes through the sewing machine.
One of my few deviations from the instructions was to french seam the front pockets. Such an awesome finish to try!
I love the finish of the shorts. It is seems very much ready to wear – love the details on the front waistband with the extra button to support the closure and little point on inside.
My other deviation from the pattern instructions was to complete the hem with a double fold and top stitch with some topstitching thread I had in the sewing stash.
Some things to note for next time – Not the biggest fan of the small slash pocket. I think if I switch to the side slash pockets from Pattern Runway scalloped shorts to the Thurlow I think I have found my tried and true shorts pattern.
Next up for the Summer of Shorts – probably some hibernation as Brisbane transitions into somewhat ‘cooler’ weather. I am considering some corporate trousers for work in a wool suiting. Perhaps with a ‘lighter’ dress zip the fly fronts will be mastered as I edge towards a tried and true pants pattern! I do have more shorts in the pattern stash – but I may need to wait til the next time warmer weather is around before the knees make an appearance.